• In reverence to the river Ganges - Jai Gange!

  • Rishikesh

  • Anuradha Goyal

The Ganga Aarti in Rishikesh offers a spiritual and divine experience

To millions of Indians, the Ganges is not just a river, it is a Divine Mother – Ganga Ma – who bestows water as a gift of life. Originating from the Gangotri glacier in the Himalayas, the river Ganges descends to the foothills at Rishikesh and then enters the Gangetic Plain at Haridwar, flowing further east to Varanasi, before merging with the sea at the Bay of Bengal.

There is perhaps no river in the world more sacred and worshipped than the Ganges. At many places, considered holy pilgrimages, she is revered so much that prayers or Aarti are performed twice a day, in the morning as well as in the evening but it is the evening aarti that is a great draw as the illumination from the lamps, the reverence of the prayers and the river banks thronging with worshippers make for a spectacular event. Rishikesh is one of those places, others being Haridwar and Varanasi.

The Ganga Aarti is a devotional offering of gratitude and respect to India’s holiest river. Seeking blessings, it involves blowing of conch shells, a chanting of hymns, led by a few young students of Vedanta stationed on pedestals with large tiered oil lamps being moved in a synchronised manner, amidst the ringing of temple bells along the river bank [ghat]. It is said that the power of Aarti is universal and the Ganga Aarti transcends all boundaries – language or culture – offering a spiritual and divine experience.

I was on my way to attend the evening Aarti on the ghat at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, which is one of the two places where the Ganga Aarti takes place in Rishikesh. As I walked on the Ram Jhula, crossing the Ganga River, she reminded me of a young adolescent girl, stepping into her youth, exuberant with carefree energy. You can also reach Parmarth Niketan via the iconic and swaying Lakshman Jhula; however, it's a longer walk.

As the sun was melting into the horizon, people started gathering around the ghat as large brass handheld aarti lamps replaced the setting sun with their luminous light. Mobile pop up shops were selling improvised lamps or diyas in eco-friendly bowls made out of leaves as an offering to the Ganga. Amidst this bustle, I found myself surrounded by pujaris who would lead the Ganga Arti, devotees, sadhaks who have chosen to either live or spend some time in Rishikesh, as well as curious tourists and travellers from around the world.

Experiencing the Aarti is mesmerising indeed, as the atmosphere radiates divinity – the chants, the bells, the rhythmic motion of the diyas, the fragrance of the lamps and incense, fills one's senses and disconnects you from the rest of the world making one completely be in the moment. Added to this overwhelming experience is the spectacle of floating diyas, the flicker of oil lamps shining like tiny jewels, in the sacred river.

Another Ganga Aarti to witness in Rishikesh is at the ancient Triveni ghat also called MahaAarti. I remember this aarti. It was cathartic to sit and observe the divinity on the faces of people, some were meditating and some were busy clicking photographs. The elements of twilight, water, fire and divinity offered many opportunities for a perfect frame.

At Haridwar, just a short drive away, the aarti takes place literally on the steps leading to Ganga, but there are ghats on the opposite side too where you can sit and watch the Aarti. At Varanasi, the boatmen will let you stand in their parked boats for a fee and you can watch the Aarti from the river. However, regular devotees prefer to stand looking at the water, praying to Ganga that has nurtured civilisations since time immemorial.

There is no fee or any restrictions for participating in the Ganga Aarti. Just land up there in time and you become a part of it. If you know stotras or hymns, you can join in too, else just clap along , or just let it permeate through your soul. This ritual takes about an hour or so, but stays with you for a long time, probably, a lifetime.

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