A Drop of Divine | Rishikesh | Shikha Tripathi

For the seeker of spirituality, Rishikesh has always held a charismatic pull. For an adventurer and explorer like me, the town offers a different magnetism, but in equal measure. Somewhere, the two meet, and birth the enigma that is Rishikesh.

My earliest memories of this holy town are from its most famous landmark, Laxman Jhula, where I was mobbed by monkeys while walking down its length as a child. I hurriedly threw the packet of peanuts I was clutching at them, and ran shrieking. As an adult, revisiting the bridge that connects both pedestrians and motorbike passengers across the eastern and western banks, brings back memories and a smile to my face. The monkey menace has only grown, but so have tourists, and locals who use the bridge to get across. Nevertheless, its importance is unwavering. According to Indian mythology, Lord Laxman is believed to have crossed the river at this spot on a bridge made of jute ropes. I would say the comparatively less crowded but longer bridge, the Ram Jhula close by, is a far safer bet.

No trip to Rishikesh is complete without participating or witnessing an aarti on the river ghats, especially the Triveni ghat. Whether you are religiously inclined or not, Triveni ghat in Rishikesh showcases the most beautiful ceremony of the Ganga aarti every evening. Be it the earthen lamps floating down the river in hundreds, or butter lamps being waved around in sync with devotional singing and dancing, the ceremony is a spectacle attended not only by devout Hindus, but also travellers and locals alike. For a special spiritual experience, attend the ceremony at Parmarth Ashram, and for a more secluded experience away from the crowds go to Shatrughan ghat.

It was only on my third trip to Rishikesh that I finally visited the iconic Beatles Ashram, a place that I should have visited much earlier. Founded in the early sixties, the Chaurasi Kutia ashram shot to fame when the Beatles visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi there, soon after which it earned its famous nickname courtesy the British band. The sprawling ashram spans nearly 15 acres across which several dilapidating studios and buildings are scattered, some of which carry signboards indicating the use of that particular space. The campus shares a boundary with the teak forests of Rajaji national park and is full of remnants of the erstwhile structures, including Maharishi Yogi’s residence and an old printing press among others, that had unusual architecture for its times. Make sure you stop to check out the exhibition gallery which showcases rare photographs of the Beatles’ visit, and some other images from the ashram archives. This is right next to the canteen, ideal for a coffee break or that much needed snack after all the walking.

Equally popular is a joint by the same name, the Beatles Café that is covered in wall art dedicated to the band, and overlooking the Ganges. It’s tucked away in the Tapovan area that is away from the clamour of the main town. Tapovan appeals to backpackers with its flurry of budget guesthouses, eateries and souvenir stores. Whether you stay here or not, it’s ideal for a walkabout, especially if you want to explore the slower paced side of Rishikesh. Browse through its roadside stalls for charming trinkets, hangout at its many neat cafes, or check out the organic stores here that sell everything from handmade soaps to gluten-free cookies, a lot of which are locally made and make for great gifts.

If you’ve had enough of being sedentary, there is enough adrenaline packed action here on offer, from bungee jumping to zip lining. The biggest high of all though is white water rafting for which Rishikesh holds the title of the unofficial country capital. The stretch of the river Ganga that runs from the Shivpuri village all the way down till just before the main town area and the ghats is the playground for rafting and kayaking. Safety is of prime importance, so make sure you go with a certified service provider. With rapids of all grades, it is ideal for beginners and for extreme sport fans alike. Combined with its spiritual aura, the many facets of Rishikesh have been my reason to return to it time and again.