An oasis of serenity | Udaipur | Shikha Tripathi

Of all cities I have explored in Rajasthan, Udaipur stands out in my memory, and it’s not because it is a bucket list destination. Long known to be one of the most beautiful cities in Asia, it’s a place steeped in history and culture with lots to offer – from spectacular sunsets to citadels with stories, from a touch of romance to uber luxury.

The City Palace is the prime monument that epitomises the grandeur of Udaipur. It is the largest palace complex in all of Rajasthan, for which no one dynasty can take complete credit. It is the ideal place to begin your stint with the city, and the discovery is best done with a guide one can hire there itself. A simple walkabout can easily take over a couple of hours, while history buffs like me take much longer.

The massive cluster of palaces is also one from where you can view the lavish Lake Palace, an accommodation that also doubles as a city attraction, both for its stupendous architecture and its historical worth. While you cannot enter the palace unless you are staying there, a great way to get up close to it is by taking a boat ride around it on Lake Pichola, a jaunt that also enables you to also see the beautiful Udaipur skyline from a distance.

If you want to up your style quotient, do so by hiring one of the City Palace boats that belong to the Maharaja himself. The royal family is also the owner of an enviable collection of vintage cars that is on display for visitors at the Vintage Car Museum. The unmatched spread of 1960s models of Ramblers and Austins, and even a 1946 Buick Super is a visual feast for lovers of not just cars, but all things vintage. In fact, a 1930 Ford is available for hire for those who want to indulge in a splendid wedding at the City Palace and add that touch of royalty by arriving in it. Wedding or not, tourists can still attend one of the several events or festive celebrations organised here, with an additional cost added if the royal family participates or hosts any of them. Another brush with the regal life can be experienced in the quiet of the countryside, riding the famed Marwari horses of Udaipur. A symbol of royalty, these horses with their trademark inwardly-turned ears have served over the centuries on battlefields, at stately events, and even in period cinema.

As the sun was melting into the horizon, people started gathering around the ghat as large brass handheld aarti lamps replaced the setting sun with their luminous light. Mobile pop-up shops were selling improvised lamps or diyas in eco-friendly bowls made out of leaves as an offering to the Ganga. Amidst this bustle, I found myself surrounded by pujaris who would lead the Ganga Arti, devotees, sadhaks who have chosen to either live or spend some time in Rishikesh, as well as curious tourists and travellers from around the world.

Away from the overdose of history, Udaipur comes alive in the evenings on the banks of Lake Pichola, with the twinkling lights of cafes small and big, traditional musicians and their impromptu performances, and puppet shows like the popular one that happens every evening at Bagore-ki-Haveli. You can also buy the dolls made by the puppeteer himself at the end of the show. Other handicrafts are available in the multitude of shops here, though Shilpgram is the ideal one because of the support it extends to local artists. My favourite thing to do while in this welcome chaos has always been getting early to the Gangaur Ghat to listen to the haunting melody of folk songs accompanied by the soul-stirring music of the ravanhattha, a traditional instrument played by the numerous, talented street artists that populate the area, and follow it with a walk around the lake to visit some superb eateries in the vicinity.

I usually begin at the hole-in-the-wall Edelweiss bakery, ideal for a tea or coffee stop, and baked goodies like their delicious apple pie. If you want to dig in to more continental fare, head to the Mediterranean surprise Savage Garden in Chandpole, where the pasta and ravioli are all prepared from scratch. Nothing beats a traditional Rajasthani meal under the stars though— a candle-lit dinner at Ambadi, the open-air restaurant at Amet Haveli on the banks of Pichola is an experience that goes beyond just a meal.

For the final touch of splendour to finish your stint with Udaipur, get on a hot air balloon ride and witness the sun rising over the desert. If for some reason, you are unable to catch that, make up for it with a cable ride to Machhla hilltop to watch the dazzling nightscape of Udaipur. One way or another, the city is bound to dazzle you.