Mewar on a platter | Udaipur | Manjulika Pramod

Udaipur, the city of lakes, was on my bucket list for years! Its quaint fairy tale setting, resplendent views of the lake, the immortal tales of romance and bravery of the erstwhile rulers of Mewar added to the allure of this city.

Just an hour's flight from Delhi, I finally landed in Udaipur and was spellbound with the stunning visuals of the Aravalli hills framing the city, palatial architecture and opulent palaces of yore as well as the most beautiful luxury hotels built in recent times. It was a traveller’s wonderland indeed! But, once I got over the awesome impact, the city’s biggest surprise was its amazing food and the immense variety available, be it street food like the ubiquitous kachoris, its cafes, fine dining at some top end restaurants or getting a taste of the local Mewari fare.

A foodie’s delight

In my quest to discover the culture of this erstwhile Kingdom of Mewar I had chefs at some of the world’s best hotels and restaurants create magical gastronomical experiences for me. I particularly enjoyed the local dishes the most. Being a vegetarian, I fell in love with the artery clogging Dal Baati Churma - dunked in desi ghee, Mewari Gatte Ki Subji made of chickpea flour, Ker Sangri, a vegetable available only in Rajasthan, Mirchi vada – huge chillies stuffed with spicy masala, Pyaz ki kachori, and the yummy Ghewar for dessert. My friend accompanying me, a certified carnivore, tried the popular dishes like Dungaar Maas, Bhuna Murg, Khargosh Keema, and, of course, Lal Maas.

I believe that whenever any kind of food arrives on the table, it must reach out to the eyes first and make you want to grab a bite and say, “Aah, that’s what I was looking for!” Something like this happened when I tasted a delicacy called Chakki Ki Sabzi at Myra restaurant in the hotel I was staying at. It’s a must try whenever you are in Udaipur. The name is derived from ‘Chakki’ – often a small neighborhood flour mill where locals source the wheat flour and the residuals to prepare this rustic dish. The gluten of the wheat flour is removed and rolled into cubes, which are then simmered in yogurt and spices to make a tangy gravy dish savoured with both, flatbreads and rice.

Rajasthan’s most iconic dish

Of course, no foodie can claim to have explored Udaipur unless they have savoured Dal Baati, an authentic Rajasthani snack or meal that you can find on many street corners all over Udaipur. Served in almost all parts of Rajasthan, it has one of the humblest beginnings. Since Rajasthan is mostly desert with large tracts of dry land, inhabitants relied on food that could last longer in adverse conditions. In addition, the Mewar rulers fought many wars and maintained huge armies who needed food and energy to fight the enemy. Dal Baati Churma gained popularity because it met all the demands in an arid land. The baatis (dense lemon sized wheat bread) could be baked at the same time, and along with ghee, it made a very filling meal for the soldiers and the Dal or lentils provided a rich source of protein while the Churma made with ghee, semolina and gur, was a perfect combination of nutrients and energy needed for the body.

The flavourful Rajasthani Thali

We are a nation of myriad flavours and tastes and the best way to savour the cuisine of any region is to indulge in the thali or a degustation menu which allows you to get a taste of a variety of dishes. The Rajasthani Thali, bursting with flavours, is an exquisite spread as rich and royal as the region itself. The thali is a combination of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare. For vegetarians there’s a delicious array of curries, dals (sometimes a blend of five lentils or panchmel), Gatte ki Sabzi, Papad ki Sabzi, Kachoris, Kadhi, Wadis and Ker Sangri. Added to this are delectable non-vegetarian items like Laal Maas, Bhuna Kukda, Banjari Gosht, Khargosh ke Kebab (Rabbit Kebab), Machli Jaisamandi [fish curry made from freshwater fish from Lake Jaisamand] and even a curd-based Safed Maas; all served with millet flatbreads made from Jowar, Bajra and Makka. No Rajasthani thali is complete without the Dal Baati Churma and sweets such as ghevar, moong dal halwa, imarti, goond ke laddoo, that are served with the main course along with pickles, chutneys, papads, raita, chaas and thandai.

Best places to binge in Udaipur!

In my jaunts through the city, I discovered a few charming rooftop restaurants around Lake Pichola serving multi-cuisine treats along with phenomenal views.

Upre by 1559 AD @ +91 9116173737 | Cafe Ambrai @+91 294 2431085 | Tribute @ +91 7073123954 Jagat Niwas @ +91 7073000378 | Jheel’s Ginger Coffee Bar & Bakery @ +91 9461016511 | Sun N Moon Rooftop Cafe @ +91 9799984488 Natraj Dining Hall @ +91 9799031771 | Traditional Khana @ +91 7665366999 | JMB @+91 294 2467777